steps

Introduction

The casual shirt drape is the foundation for basic button down shirts, as well as other casual styles.

Prepare Form

Place a pin _" forward of the shoulder seam at the top of the arm. (There should also be pins at the mid armhole in front and back, a pin Center Front (CF) 3/8" down from the neck, and a bust bridge)

Center Front

Pin muslin to form on CF line at neck and hip using opposing pins.

Pin to bust bridge at CF (Do not pin CF line at waist).

Front Neckline

Smooth and clip neckline.

Secure shoulder seam with a pin at the neck and a pin at the pin mark placed in step one.

Mark neckline curve with dots and the shoulder seam ends with T marks.

Front Armscye

Smooth and pin crossgrain line to the side seam at the hip level, keeping it parallel to the floor.

Smooth excess fabric up and place a pin at the top of the side seam. Be careful to keep the side seam straight up on the grain.

Mark new shoulder point by extending along seam 1/2" out at the top of the shoulder.

Direct ease to armscye.

Pin ease. Total ease will be 1-3/4" or more

Trim excess fabric in armcye.

Mark armscye 1/2" out from pin at mid armscye

Front Side Seam

Trace bottom of armscye plate.

Pencil rub side seam

Measure and mark 1-3/4" down from armscye plate marking. This will make a low, scooped armhole.

Measure and mark 3/4" ease from pencil rub at top of side seam.

Measure and mark 3/4" ease at hip.

Trim and Unpin Front

Remove pins and trim excess fabric at the side seam and shoulder seam.

Center Back

Pin muslin to form on Center Back (CB) line using opposing pins at neckline and hem.

Pin center back in the shoulder area. Do not pin at waist; the muslin should fall straight down to the hip

Back Neckline

Smooth and clip the neckline.

Remember that the shoulder seam will be shifted to the pin forward of the shoulder point

Secure shoulder seam with a pin at the neck and a pin at the shoulder (pin mark). Mark neckline curve with dots and the ends of the shoulder seam with T marks.

Back Armscye

Extend shoulder point straight out 1/2" to lengthen the shoulder seam.

Smooth and pin crossgrain line to the side seam at the hip level, keeping it parallel to the floor.

Direct ease into armscye. Pin side seam at armseye.

Smooth fullness to above the pin at mid armscye. Pin and mark armscye ½" out from mid armscye pin.

Trim armscye.

Back Side Seam

Trace bottom of armscye plate.

Pencil rub side seam.

Measure and mark 1 1/2" down from armscye plate.

Measure and mark 1" ease from pencil rub.

Measure and mark 1" ease from pencil rub at hip.

Pin Test

Fold front muslin shoulder and side seams under and finger press to crease. (We may need a diagram here to show this clearly)

Pin shoulder and side seams to back muslin with pins perpendicular to the seam line. Release pin holding ease at armscye. Mark neck at CF and CB with Tmarks.

Release all pins holding the muslin to the for and check the balance of the drape. From the side view the side seam should hang straight and right on top of the side seam of the form.

Back view of casual shirt. Check to see that the center back hangs straight.

Front view of casual shirt. Check to see that the center front hangs straight and that the shoulder seam is on the seam at the neck end and ½" to the front of the point of the shoulder at the shoulder end.