The professional dress form is solid but has a pin-able surface, has a heavy base, rotates easily, and has seams at the neck, waist, shoulder seams, side seams, and princess seams. We will add landmarks to the form to make the draping process easier and more precise.
Preparing Dress Form
1
The following steps will prepare your dress form for draping by correcting any misplaced seams, making a bridge from bust point to bust point, placing landmark pins, and creating a Horizontal balance line at the hip.
Correcting Seam Placement
2
Use narrow black drafting tape to mark the center of the waist tape.
3
Check the front princess seam. It should be visually centered on the
shoulder seam, cross the top of the bust point, and drop straight down to the
waist seam. It should continue down the front of the form visually parallel to
the center front seam.
4
Pin style tape firmly to the form using silk pins every 3 to 5 inches.
Slide each pin through the style tape and under the top layer of fabric on the
form until the pin is buried all the way to the pinhead. Use opposing pins.
5
Correct back princess seam if necessary. This seam should continue over
the shoulder from the front princess seam and visually divide the back equally.
It can be slightly angled toward the center back from armscye to waist but
should be straight (perpendicular to the floor) from the waist to the bottom of
the form.
6
Pin style tape firmly to the form.
7
Correct shoulder seam if necessary. The shoulder seam should be at the top of the curve of the body over the shoulder, and should be centered at the top of the armscye (the point of the shoulder) directly above the side seam.
Horizontal Balance Line (HBL)
8
Pin style tape around the fullest part of the hip (7 to 9 inches down)
parallel to the floor
Creating the Bust Bridge
9
The bust bridge keeps draped fabric from fitting flat between the
breasts, and should not be used when draping bras, swimsuits, or other styles
that define each breast separately. Make the bust bridge from muslin folded and
pressed into a ˝" strip with all raw edges enclosed.
10
Pin tightly from bust point to bust point with pins at the edges of the
muslin to hold it flat and taunt.
11
Pin the ends of the muslin strip about two inches beyond the side seam.
12
Mark the centerline on the bust bridge.
Landmark Pins
13
Using small ball headed pins, place landmark pins at the top shoulder point, and the middle of the armscye in the front and in the back.
14
Mark the armhole depth by measuring between 5 1/2" and 6 1/4" down from the top shoulder, depending on the dressform size.