return to nonprint version
Steps
Introduction
The sleeve with a flat cap is appropriate for casual shirts with large, open armscyes.
Set Cap Parameters
1
Start with a basic sleeve in a size close to your dress form size.
2
Draw a line 1-1/2" above the biceps line of the sleeve.
3
Draw a line ½" down from the sleeve cap.
4
Measure the back armscye of the garment for which you are creating the sleeve.
5
Measure the front armscye of the garment. Add these two measurements, divide in half, and add ¼".
Draft New Capline
6
Draw a line from the lowered cap to the raised bicep. The length of this line should correspond to your calculated measurement.
Repeat on the other side.
7
Divide each of these lines into quarters.
8
At the lower quarter mark, measure down ¼" and make a mark.
9
At the upper quarter mark, measure up ¼" and make a mark.
10
Repeat on the other side.
11
Use your curve tool to draw the curve of the new flatter sleeve cap through the marks. The curve crosses over the line at the halfway mark. 
12
Draw underarm curve.
13
Repeat on the other side. Make sure that the line curves smoothly from one segment to the next.
Sleeve Underarm and Cuff
14
Connect the underarm points with the bottom corners of the sleeve with straight lines.
15
Shorten the sleeve by the depth of the cuff by drawing a line 2"up from the bottom of the sleeve.
16
Divide the back half of this line (the quarter mark in the back).
17
Draw a line perpendicular to the bottom of the sleeve at this point that starts 2-1/2" above the line, crosses it, and ends 3/4" below the line. This line marks the location and length of the continuous lap that closes the sleeve.
18
Draw a curve that drops down ¾" in the back, and then curves back up gradually to meetthe other corner of the sleeve.
19
Draw a small cross hatch at the top of the continuous lap.
20
This is the drafted sleeve. Add notches for the shoulder seam and the underarm notches on the garment. Use a single notch in the front and a double notch in the back.