Steps

Introduction

The basic straight skirt has four darts in the front and four darts in the back, and side seams straight on the grain.

Center Front

Begin by raising the form to a comfortable height for draping. Pin fold of muslin to center front matching the crossgrain with the Horizontal Balance Line (HBL) on the form. Pin using opposing pins at the waist and hem. Place a pin at the HBL.

Smooth muslin from center front along the crossgrain to the side seam. Align crossgrain with Hip Balance Line and pin.

Smooth muslin at waist from center front to the princess line

First Front Dart Leg

Clip waist from center front to princess line, pin.

Mark with a T at the intersection of the waistline tape and the princess line for dart leg. Mark center front.

Side Front Waist

At side seam, smooth muslin upward from HBL to waist. (To find the correct point keep the fabric smooth and flat for a hand span from the HBL to the waist, do not let it twist forward or back).

The side seam line marked on the fabric will swing away from the side seam at the waist. Place a pin at the side seam and waist intersection.

Mark side waist with a T.

Front Waist Ease and Dart Outlets

Remove waist pin at princess line.

Smooth and clip fabric from side waist toward princess line.

Pin a 1/4" (total) ease tuck at the waist between the side seam and princess line.

Mark muslin at the intersection of the waistline tape and the princess line. Pin this mark to the form. (This mark will not be used when you true the pattern. You can mark with a small X instead of a T or use a different color to distinguish it from the actual dart marks).

Front Side Seam

Remove pin from cross grain at the side seam.

Shift the muslin over until the side seam line drawn on the muslin matches the side seam of the form at the HBL. This adds ease to the drape at the hip. Re-pin the muslin.

Smooth the muslin from the cross grain at side seam upward to side waist again and pin. The waist should fit smoothly from the princess line to the side seam (with the ¼" ease tuck). Pencil rub side seam.

Trim the muslin to within 1" of the pencil rub line.

Create Two Front Darts

Measure the distance between the X and T marks at the princess line and divide by two. This will be the individual measurement of each of the two dart intakes.

Mark the intake of first dart with a T to the left of the first T mark you made on the princess line.

Fold dart at princess line with excess tucked underneath toward center front. Pin dart closed with pins horizontal to the dart line (do not pin to the form!).

Measure1-1/4 inches from dart toward the side seam and mark with a T.

Create second dart at mark folding in remaining excess, marking, and pinning as you did in the previous step.

Mark the point of each dart, measuring down from the waist 3 inches.

Trim excess to within ½" of waistline. Mark waist with dots. (Dots should be spaced at least 1")Unpin and fold drape away from side seam and pin to form.

Center Back

Pin fold of muslin to center back matching the crossgrain with the Horizontal Balance Line (HBL) on the form. Pin using opposing pins at the waist and hem. Place a pin at the HBL.

Smooth muslin from center back to side seam. Align crossgrain with Hip Balance Line and pin.

First Back Dart Leg

Smooth and clip muslin from center back waist to princess line.

Pin at intersection of waist and princess line.

Mark with a T at the intersection of the waist and princess line. Mark center back with a dash.

Side Back Waist

Smooth muslin from HBL at side seam upward to side waist. The side seam marked on the muslin will swing forward of the side seam of the form.

Mark side waist with a T.

Back Waist Ease and Dart Outlets

Smooth and clip muslin at waist from side seam to princess line.

Pin a 1/4" (total) ease tuck at the waist between side seam and princess line.

Mark and pin at the intersection of waist and princess line for dart leg. (This mark will not be used when truing the pattern. Use another color or type of mark to distinguish it from the actual dart locations).

Back Side Seam

Remove pin at crossgrain of side hip. Shift muslin so the side seam line on the muslin is at the side seam of the form, for ease allowance.Re-pin on the stitch line.

Smooth muslin from HBL at side seam upward to side waist again and pin. The waist should fit smoothly from the princess line to the side seam (with the ¼" ease tuck). Pencil rub side seam.

Create Two Back Darts

Measure the distance between marks made at the princess line and divide by two. This will be the individual measurement of each of the two back darts. (Alternative method - make the intake for the dart toward the CB ½ inch total, and fold the remaining excess in the dart closest to the side seam).

Measure and mark the intake of first dart to right of the T mark closest to the CB.

Fold this first dart along the princess line with excess folded in and towards the center back. Pin with pins perpendicular to the fold line. Do not pin to form.

Measure and mark 1 1/4" from first dart towards the side seam.

Fold second dart at this mark with remaining excess folded in towards center back. Pin as before.

Measure and mark dart lengths (both at 4-1/2 inches if intakes are equal, otherwise make the smaller dart toward the CB 3 " long and the larger dart toward the side seam 5-1/2" long).

Trim

Trim side seam to within 1" of the pencil rub line.

Trim excess fabric at waist, back. Mark waistline with dots. Do not space dots too any closer than 1 inch. Check and correct all markings (CF, CB, three marks for each dart, side seam at waist in front and back).

Pin Test

Crease side seam of the front piece under.

Place front of skirt over back skirt at side seam. Match crossmarks at waist and at HBL.

Pin side seams together placing pins perpendicular to the seam line. Do not pin to form. Mark hem at bottom of form at side seam, CF, CB, and princess lines.

Finished Drape

Release all pins except one at the CF waist and one at the CB waist. Check to se that the side seam hangs straight.

Front view of finished drape. Foldline should line up with the center line of the form.

Back view of finished drape. Foldline should line up with the center line of the form.