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shoulder dart armcye waist dart
Fold the muslin along the 3" line down to meet the dart intake mark, folding the excess toward the centerline.
Pin the layers of the dart together, placing pins perpendicular to fold, but do not pin the form
Smooth the muslin to the shoulder tip, then mark and pin the shoulder point
Run your finger along the roll line of the armhole to the crossgrain pin to test the smoothness. If loose or tight, release the pin to adjust.
Mark the armeye
Trim and clip the waistline to the princess seam. Mark for dart.
Mark 1.5" (1" for juniors) from the Princess line for the dart intake
Fold the waist dart from the crossmark to the dart intake mark with excess towards the centerline. Place the pins perpendicular to the foldline, but do not pin the form.
Smooth, trim, and clip the muslin along the waist.
Pin a 1/4" ease tuck. Continue to smooth and slash the muslin along the waist. Pin at the side seam.